Walk 13/2008 – Weekend away at Lulworth Cove, Dorset

Saturday 31st May 2008

Friday

11 of us met for our delightful weekend at Lulworth Cove. Several had different commitments during the day, which together with the long journey of 4 to 5 hours it was decided we just meet, at the Castle Inn for a welcome night cap and light supper. It was 21:30 hrs before we had all convened; therefore not much time other than for a quick catch up, an introduction to Saturday’s walk and a giggle about our Youth hostel. The hostel had an appearance rather like a wooden village hall but turned out to be much more comfortable than expected!

Saturday,

A beautiful sunny day made for a fantastic day’s walking along the south coast cliff path of Dorset. We decided that 12.7 miles climbing up and over several Marilyns was challenging but that it had been an amazing walk. We started in the pretty village of Lulworth where we were staying and completed the linear walk to Worth Matravers where our previously moved cars were awaiting to return us back to the hostel on completion. [Ed – I have done a bit of research – “A Marilyn is a hill anywhere in Britain with at least 150 metres of drop on all sides before the ground rises to another qualifying hill.................. there are currently 1552 Marilyns, of which 1213 are in Scotland, five are on the Isle of Man, 179 are in England and 156 are in Wales. (Yes, I know this adds to 1553, but the summit of Black Mountain straddles the Welsh/English border and counts toward both parts of the list.)” click for more info].

The walk was a continual track of steep climbs and descents punctuated with some fairly level stretches. Views from the headlands were fabulous, with the crumbling white chalk and golden sandstone cliffs of Dorset. An interesting distraction to our beautiful walk had also been to cross through substantial stretches of ‘Lulworth Range’ a rural training expanse for the military, but avoiding certain mapped out areas that contained old ammunition! We even passed a cluster of beaten out rusted old tanks.

One of the steepest climbs was up Bindon Hill but well worth it for the views from the top. Not only were there superb views of Mupe Rocks and Mupe Bay behind, but also Worbarrow Bay and Worbarrow Tout ahead. We took a coffee break at this point admiring the magnificent views, this cliff was so high that a sea mist blew in and some of us had to wear an extra layer during coffee!

Post coffee we descended very steeply down the other side of the cliff, almost ‘one in one’ in places!! But excellent for those glutes! and thigh muscles. At the bottom of this cliff we decided to take a path inland to the village of Tyneham, a village of great interest. It was taken over by the military during the 2nd World War. The residents had been forced to move out, leaving the houses derelict and can now been seen with many bullet holes in them. The schoolhouse and church have been restored and were open to the public, with some interesting displays and history of the village. During the visit our ‘educational trip leader’ Alan attempted to increase our urgency to complete the tour and return back onto the coast path to continue our walk. He desperately wanted us to complete the walk in one day!

However, at the top of the next cliff again we took a break, as it was lunchtime. It was great looking down across pastureland and the village as we ate our tasty packed lunches from the hostel. At this point we were also visited by a herd of majestic Charolais Cattle. For some time after lunch our climbs were gentler but little did we know what was to come of late afternoon! As we descended down the next cliff we were able to enjoy views of Kimmeridge Bay and Brandy Bay, but also the observation of a very welcome ice cream van. Alan again had to wait whilst we all took a leisurely suck of our scrumptious Dorset ice cream. Owen declined the delight, as he suprisingly felt conscious about his ingesting of fine food as opposed to rubbish!! (Please refer to report of Standedge walk 04–08).

Our path out of Kimmeridge Bay climbed fairly steeply to Clavell Tower built in 1830; an elegant landmark and famous as Thomas Hardy used it. It has very recently been moved back from the cliff edge due to erosion and is looking prestigious following its sympathetic restoration. The walk between Kimmeridge Bay and Chapman’s Pool is quite gentle, as it is flat for most of the way. It was quite overgrown in places, with views of pleasant fields inland. Apart from the pretty waterfall it was the most tedious part of the walk, mainly because the several small bays cannot be seen due to grassy overgrowth and the hazard of cliff erosion. However, the long grass gave Amanda an ideal bed for her to receive a healing administration of plasters and cream in the management of her heel blisters. At this point she decided ‘these boots are not made for walking’ and will have to be ditched.

Then late afternoon arrived and we were in for that shock of the penultimate climb up Houns–Tout Cliff. It was very steep and late in the walk! I looked up from behind and observed everyone to be clearly bushed, crawling up the cliff at a snail pace! Our reward at the top was the wonderful views of Egmont Bight and the very pretty cove of Chapman’s Pool. The sea was a lovely sapphire shade of blue and a picture with the little boats anchored. The descent down the other side of the cliff was also testing, as it comprised of steep steps cut out of the ground and taking us in–land.

At Hill Bottom we took a tea break the first on record in the walking club reports! Cathy demanded it, but everyone else was most pleased to follow the request and quickly dropped to sitting on the road verges. Chocolate, flapjack and water refuelled us to take that final ascent into Worth Matravers. This village was most picturesque and the village pub provided a necessary liquid reward for most. Others raced back to the hostel for a welcome shower before supper. Supper at the hostel was enjoyed by all and delicious home cooked items on the menu included Spaghetti Bolognese, Roast Chicken or Tomato Penne. Not all made it to the Castle Inn for a final night cap, but I am sure there was good quality sleep had by all and perhaps even a few snores!! [Ed – it was noted that Nigel, having spent a couple of days with Cathy, was the only one seen to take his ear plugs out when he went to bed!]

Report – Cathy

Pictures – Alan and Angela

Walk rating – excellent

The entrance to the hostel which Cathy described as being like a village hall.

We start our walk by climbing out of the valley. You can see the hostel on the extreme right.

We think this is a Pyramidal Orchid.

Some other attractive blue plant – any offers for a name?

A queue forms on the narrow path.

Mupe Bay – is this England?.

Arish Mell beach - these beaches were used to practise for the Normandy invasion.

We stop to admire another great view.

There is still quite a bit of training debris around.

The climb up to Flower’s Barrow.

The abandoned village of Tyneham.

Angela does her school ma’am pose in the old school house. Would she use the cane on a naughty boy?

Another part of the old school house.

We stop for lunch at the top of Tyneham Cap. Claire takes in the scenery.

Alan reads the information board as a herd of ghostly cattle drift by.

It’s really hard work this walking!

The view over Brandy Bay.

The view back across Hobarrow Bay.

Some pretty pink flowers in the foreground enhance the view.

Clavell Tower which is being rebuilt further away from the cliff edge.

The “pretty” waterfall?.

The climb up Houns–tout Cliff.

From where you get a view of Chapman’s Pool.

And the climb down again.

There is an impromptu tea stop. Are the hills taking their toll?